Need a Roof Rack? No problemo!
Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 7:59 pm
So every once in a while someone wants to haul stuff in their car other than wind/ kitesurf
gear and/or cannot fit the boards/sails/kites inside the Honda Pubic while seating 5 of their family
members or friends. Well, then the argument focuses on the prohibitive cost of the Thule* (*substitute
other overpriced, will inevitably need accessory parts that cost more than the rack to begin with,
imported but actually made in China roof rack company) roof rack etcetera and the person ends
up knitting a new sweater on the next windy day.
Well, no more I say!! Here's one way to get your boards and sail/kite bags out of your car and still not foot
the wicked bills for that designer rack. Or to have to buy a gas guzzling monster truck/ van (like my rigs).
Purchase the following:
- A decent tie down strap set w/ cam lock, at least 1" diameter, ~
10-12' long ea. (8-12 bucks)
- 4-6 tie down, 2 bolthole stainless loops from your local hardware or
marine store (8-12 bucks)
- 8-12 stainless bolts/ locking nuts, self-tapping screws or stainless
screws; these should be course thread if screws and/or minimum #8 bolts/screw diameter (5-8 bucks)
- 5200 Marine Silicone tube (8-12 bucks)..
Grand total $29-44 and half hour's work
(I was able to get all of these items at Bosuns' Locker or Capital Iron in Victoria)
Gather the following:
- Multi driver screwdriver or wrenches to fit the bolt heads
- Cordless drill and bit of the diameter size smaller!!
than the
screws/ or same as the bolts
- Tape measure to get things in at least similar distances from edges
of roof etc.
- Marker pen
- A few beers (not too many or nasty things happen to your project)
and some tunes
1) Lay your board(s) on the roof to get a sense where the straps should
roughly be anchored and that they will be symmetrical. Some smaller roofs will fit only one, most others usually two boards.
2) Envision the upward or sideways forces of the straps when pulled tight and install the loops at such an angle as to minimize lateral pressure and maximize
upward pressure so the loops won't bend over time or dent the roof. If lateral pressure cannot be avoided, install at a right or oblique angle to reduce the forces.
3) Mark roof with marker pen through eyes of the tie down loops once located where you want them
4) Homeowner clue: if you make sure the loops are a minimum of 4'
apart you can also use them to haul plywood, gyproc and other bulky items like ....washing machines.
5) Decide if you can get at the bottom of the holes and then you could
use bolts and nuts which will be bomber but this is not necessary in most cases.
6) To estimate bit size required hold the bit along the screw to see
that the shaft of the screw/bolt is versus the threads.
7) Drill holes, making sure to a) not to go through the liner of the roof if you have a finished metal
roof or if using screws and b) not to overly enlarge the holes, as the screw threads need to grab
something. Holes going into metal should be quite a bit smaller than the screw itself, self tapping or
stainless screws will be hard to start but will then gradually get easier to turn. In fiberglass (ie. Truck canopy)
make the holes only slightly smaller to keep the gelcoat from cracking outward.
If you own a rag top maybe don't try this
8.) Drop a bit of 5200 into the completed holes and onto the ends of the screws to ensure the holes
and the base of the screw as well as the loop base will be well sealed against the elements.
Make sure you wear your best shirt when doing this so your wife can complain to you about the
white silicone stain on it that will NEVER come out.
9) Install the screws/bolts and tighten. Do not Hulk Hogan things! Snug is all that is needed, stripping screws
means drilling a new set of holes, make no mistake about it..you can't just add more silicone, haha!
....No, really, you can't!! The stuff adds lots of strength on its own, sticks like shit to a blanket
(or your best shirt) but you cannot rely on it to hold the whole load.
10) Test the rack. Use boardbags on the boards or place a swim noodle
under both ends of the board at the loop locations.
11) Usually two surf boards will want to bind upward due to the forces
and placing a sail/kite bag in the middle will add friction as well as reduce this upward force to make
a nice stable package. An alternative to this is to install a separate third set of loops in the middle
of the roof, in particular if you have a wide roof such as a full-size van.
12) Make sure you try to tie items together, weave the strap through the
board bag handle etc. or add a safety line. I have never had a loop fail
(make sure you buy decent stainless, skookum stuff and don't overly enlarge holes or strip
the screws when installing!!). And I have always replaced straps in time, the sun will rot them in
one year so don't hurt anyone on the roads by trying to save $10!
Viola, now you are a cool beach cruiser! You can be like a mainland surfer and motor around with
yer ride with surf boards on top that never really get removed or used. And your wheels with the loops
still look professional, have minimal crap on the roof and if you used 5200, you will NEVER have a
leak develop...I have done this to 4 different vehicles and have never had a problem,
but trust me, buy the 5200!
Have fun!!
gear and/or cannot fit the boards/sails/kites inside the Honda Pubic while seating 5 of their family
members or friends. Well, then the argument focuses on the prohibitive cost of the Thule* (*substitute
other overpriced, will inevitably need accessory parts that cost more than the rack to begin with,
imported but actually made in China roof rack company) roof rack etcetera and the person ends
up knitting a new sweater on the next windy day.
Well, no more I say!! Here's one way to get your boards and sail/kite bags out of your car and still not foot
the wicked bills for that designer rack. Or to have to buy a gas guzzling monster truck/ van (like my rigs).
Purchase the following:
- A decent tie down strap set w/ cam lock, at least 1" diameter, ~
10-12' long ea. (8-12 bucks)
- 4-6 tie down, 2 bolthole stainless loops from your local hardware or
marine store (8-12 bucks)
- 8-12 stainless bolts/ locking nuts, self-tapping screws or stainless
screws; these should be course thread if screws and/or minimum #8 bolts/screw diameter (5-8 bucks)
- 5200 Marine Silicone tube (8-12 bucks)..
Grand total $29-44 and half hour's work
(I was able to get all of these items at Bosuns' Locker or Capital Iron in Victoria)
Gather the following:
- Multi driver screwdriver or wrenches to fit the bolt heads
- Cordless drill and bit of the diameter size smaller!!
than thescrews/ or same as the bolts
- Tape measure to get things in at least similar distances from edges
of roof etc.
- Marker pen
- A few beers (not too many or nasty things happen to your project)
and some tunes
1) Lay your board(s) on the roof to get a sense where the straps should
roughly be anchored and that they will be symmetrical. Some smaller roofs will fit only one, most others usually two boards.
2) Envision the upward or sideways forces of the straps when pulled tight and install the loops at such an angle as to minimize lateral pressure and maximize
upward pressure so the loops won't bend over time or dent the roof. If lateral pressure cannot be avoided, install at a right or oblique angle to reduce the forces.
3) Mark roof with marker pen through eyes of the tie down loops once located where you want them
4) Homeowner clue: if you make sure the loops are a minimum of 4'
apart you can also use them to haul plywood, gyproc and other bulky items like ....washing machines.
5) Decide if you can get at the bottom of the holes and then you could
use bolts and nuts which will be bomber but this is not necessary in most cases.
6) To estimate bit size required hold the bit along the screw to see
that the shaft of the screw/bolt is versus the threads.
7) Drill holes, making sure to a) not to go through the liner of the roof if you have a finished metal
roof or if using screws and b) not to overly enlarge the holes, as the screw threads need to grab
something. Holes going into metal should be quite a bit smaller than the screw itself, self tapping or
stainless screws will be hard to start but will then gradually get easier to turn. In fiberglass (ie. Truck canopy)
make the holes only slightly smaller to keep the gelcoat from cracking outward.
If you own a rag top maybe don't try this
8.) Drop a bit of 5200 into the completed holes and onto the ends of the screws to ensure the holes
and the base of the screw as well as the loop base will be well sealed against the elements.
Make sure you wear your best shirt when doing this so your wife can complain to you about the
white silicone stain on it that will NEVER come out.
9) Install the screws/bolts and tighten. Do not Hulk Hogan things! Snug is all that is needed, stripping screws
means drilling a new set of holes, make no mistake about it..you can't just add more silicone, haha!
....No, really, you can't!! The stuff adds lots of strength on its own, sticks like shit to a blanket
(or your best shirt) but you cannot rely on it to hold the whole load.
10) Test the rack. Use boardbags on the boards or place a swim noodle
under both ends of the board at the loop locations.
11) Usually two surf boards will want to bind upward due to the forces
and placing a sail/kite bag in the middle will add friction as well as reduce this upward force to make
a nice stable package. An alternative to this is to install a separate third set of loops in the middle
of the roof, in particular if you have a wide roof such as a full-size van.
12) Make sure you try to tie items together, weave the strap through the
board bag handle etc. or add a safety line. I have never had a loop fail
(make sure you buy decent stainless, skookum stuff and don't overly enlarge holes or strip
the screws when installing!!). And I have always replaced straps in time, the sun will rot them in
one year so don't hurt anyone on the roads by trying to save $10!
Viola, now you are a cool beach cruiser! You can be like a mainland surfer and motor around with
yer ride with surf boards on top that never really get removed or used. And your wheels with the loops
still look professional, have minimal crap on the roof and if you used 5200, you will NEVER have a
leak develop...I have done this to 4 different vehicles and have never had a problem,
but trust me, buy the 5200!
Have fun!!
You can still open the box if you don't put too much weight on it.
