Surfing
Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:13 pm
Last week I was on the westcoast for my wedding and went surfing for the first time since my shoulder got surgery, I've now gone a few times on the Big Island as well. Somewhere between the last time I went surfing, surgery, and now, I started windsurfing (in part due to said shoulder injury preventing paddling), obviously got a lot better at windsurfing, went wavesailing to Maui once for SUP (skunked for wind) and once with wind and then the Oregon coast for a week of wind. I was by no means an expert before my shoulder made it impossible to surf, but I also didn't suck.
Is it just me or does surfing now just suck? Do people still do this sport after wavesailing? Sitting out on south chesterman waiting for a wave it felt more like fishing than surfing, then paddling back out after a wave it was just such a pain in the ass. Here on Hawaii, the sitting in the water just gets me freaked out about sharks. This all compared to blasting out powered up, jumping around, then surfing back in, dodging and outrunning sharks, it really just seems so mundane in contrast. SUP-ing really seems to be the nail in the coffin for me. While it still isn't my first choice, the challenge of balancing, and the ability to paddle out much quicker, catch up to waves, and surf lousy stuff, just makes it so versatile.
So those of you who still conventionally surf, what is your secret? How do you still love this sport? Is there hope for me? Because right now, I'd rather just go boogie boarding! There I said it!
Is it just me or does surfing now just suck? Do people still do this sport after wavesailing? Sitting out on south chesterman waiting for a wave it felt more like fishing than surfing, then paddling back out after a wave it was just such a pain in the ass. Here on Hawaii, the sitting in the water just gets me freaked out about sharks. This all compared to blasting out powered up, jumping around, then surfing back in, dodging and outrunning sharks, it really just seems so mundane in contrast. SUP-ing really seems to be the nail in the coffin for me. While it still isn't my first choice, the challenge of balancing, and the ability to paddle out much quicker, catch up to waves, and surf lousy stuff, just makes it so versatile.
So those of you who still conventionally surf, what is your secret? How do you still love this sport? Is there hope for me? Because right now, I'd rather just go boogie boarding! There I said it!